Without really planning it, this past week focused on silver.
Before I get into the pieces I worked on, a little background: silver has long been one of the most traditional precious metals in jewelry. Pure silver is beautiful but far too soft for everyday wear, so it’s usually mixed with other metals, most often copper, to create sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver. Sterling has that bright white shine we all associate with silver, and while it naturally develops tarnish over time (a reaction with sulfur in the air), it’s easy to polish away and nothing to worry about.
One detail I found especially interesting: in Japan, the standard silver alloy is slightly different at 95% silver. That higher silver content makes it a little more resistant to tarnish than sterling silver, though the trade-off is that it’s also a touch softer.
Silver Umi & my first men’s rings
My silver Umi figurine is done! I think she turned out almost as cute as the real Umi. ;)
Speaking of silver tarnish, for this project I used it to enhance the design. To mimic Umi’s fur I applied an oxidation liquid to darken most of the figurine. If you look closely, you’ll notice texture for her fur. I made this texture directly in wax, which gave the surface a softer, more abstract feel. Another approach could have been to add the fur details after casting with a rotary bur, which would have resulted in a sharper, more defined look.
I recently completed my first two men’s rings. One is a slightly asymmetric take on a rectangular signet, and the other an inverse-domed band. In photos I find myself drawn more to the signet, but in person I prefer the band.
What stood out most to me in this project was the scale. Men’s rings are noticeably larger than women’s in every dimension, and finding the right balance of substantial without feeling too heavy was a real challenge. In the end, I’m proud of how both designs turned out and it was especially rewarding to see my brother wearing them around Tokyo.
Projects in-progress
At long last, my shell charms are literally coming together. What began as a modest idea for a three-charm bracelet grew to five, and this past week I decided to go all in: a chunky silver necklace with ten charms and a toggle clasp.
I’ve been soldering and polishing in every spare moment, and if all goes well it should be finished by next week. I can’t wait to share it. I really love the way it looks when worn!
Recent inspirations
My new silver mug by Naoto Tanii. You couldn’t find a more perfect mug for jewelers if you tried.
